A firm believer in the power of food and wine matching, Celine Rousseau makes chardonnays
and rieslings that walk the talk. And that’s not even mentioning her shiraz.
meticulous approach to all aspects of wine production has seen the career of French-born winemaker Celine Rousseau soar.
“I am a perfectionist,” admits the Eden Road winemaker, somewhat apologetically – although this attention to detail keeps her at the top of her game, whether she is crafting a fine blend of chardonnay or racing a yacht on Sydney harbour.
The wines of Eden Road achieve high critical acclaim, an even more impressive feat considering the string of challenging years Rousseau has faced since joining the winery in 2017.
Particularly trying were the 2021 and 2022 vintages, requiring Rousseau to draw on all her experience, especially her time in Bordeaux. In 2021, Rousseau also managed the vineyard, along with making the wine, a testament of the breadth of her knowledge and skill. Then there was the heartbreaking 2020 vintage when – for the first time in her career – she couldn’t making any wine, the grapes affected by smoke taint from the bush fires.
Rousseau’s intuitive approach, informed by decades of experience, means she is nimble in her response to challenging climatic events, with winemaking choices finely tailored to the season. She knows when to take a risk and when not to rush the decision to harvest. And she absolutely loves a challenge.
“Every year you learn something different. I still wake up every morning and feel really excited about the day ahead. Winemaking is not just a profession for me, it is a way of living.”
Educated in science, oenology, and marketing in France, with experience in Champagne and Bordeaux, she moved to Western Australia in the mid-1990s, working at Pierro and Hainault vineyards. In 1999, she joined Chalkers Crossing in Hilltops, New South Wales, where she made her mark as chief winemaker and manager, creating a vibrant, fragrant range of medium-bodied wines. And for the past five years, she’s been chief winemaker, winery and vineyard manager at Eden Road Wines in the Canberra District.
Growing up in France, she learned wine and food are inextricably linked.
“Food culture needs to be part of the winemaking culture,” says Rousseau.
She takes the time to cook for herself and also for her team, sometimes using produce from the property. “It’s my way of showing appreciation for their work.”
Her chardonnay, made from Tumbarumba fruit, is particularly food-friendly, with its long, persistent palate and underlying minerality. Her bone-dry riesling spends time in older oak and undergoes battonage to increase the structure and palate weight of the wine to counterbalance the naturally high acid.
However, it is shiraz for which she is most known. The hallmark of her style is the focused fruit, framing ripe tannins, medium body and underlying savouriness. The French synonym ‘syrah’ is used to differentiate her style from the fuller, rich-fruited wines that dominate the market.
Rousseau does not use whole bunches in her shiraz ferments due to their dominating impact, particularly on the tannins, preferring the pure expression of site instead.
There are three syrahs currently available in the Eden Road portfolio: the entry-level 2021 The Long Road (A$30); the spicy 2019 Canberra Syrah (A$50); and the premium 2018 Cullarin Block 71 (A$55) made from half-century-old vines. Also in the range is a sauvignon blanc, pinot gris, rosé, sangiovese and pinot noir. Each variety is given the same respect and attention as the icon varieties.
The value Rousseau places on her small team at Eden Road is admirable and clearly demonstrates her leadership sensibilities. For example, she involves the whole team in the blending process, valuing everyone’s perspectives and opinions.
It is essential to Rousseau that everyone feels safe, happy, and respected at work, even in the depths of a challenging harvest. When everyone enjoys their work, trusts each other, and is invested in the process, the best possible wines are made.
Rousseau is passionate about all aspects of the wine industry, from the wine itself to the winemaking, the science behind it, the growing of the grapes and the maturation.
“Every year you learn something different. I still wake up every morning and feel really excited about the day ahead. Winemaking is not just a profession for me, it is a way of living.”
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FACTS AND FIGURES
REGION | Canberra District, ACT
YEARS IN INDUSTRY | 30+
ANNUAL CRUSH | 200 tonnes
STAND-OUT WINES | 2019 Cullarin Block 71 Syrah; 2021 Eden Road Canberra Riesling
PHOTOGRAPHY by Sean Davey.